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General Questions

  • Chim-Scan® is a internal evaluation system to give professional a way to look at the interior of a chimney called a flue. They can then take photos and tell the customer what's happening in their chimney.

     

    To quote many homeowners
     'So this is a really cool  camera that scans my chimney like a doctor doing a colonoscopy

    ​

    Our Specialty is building cameras to go where your head want fit.

  • New orders take 1 to 1.5 weeks to ship. 

    We build from a standardized parts, which allow us to build quickly.  Every mechanical part is tested repeatedly while being assembled and repeatedly again once assembled. Once a unit and camera are built, they go through 8hrs minimum of testing. We have a chimney lab on site which we use for training and for testing equipment for it leaves

  • Yes, we offer both. When you buy a Chim-Scan®, you get access to over 60 combined years of experience. We love answering people questions, whether its chimney technical, inspection how too, scanning techniques, to business and marketing questions. 

    Now as for training, there are 2 options.

    1. Read the book that comes with your unit, watch the class on YouTube.

    2. Come to Iowa for hands on training.

    If you own or are purchasing equipment, training is free if you come to our lab in Iowa. 

    Training can be 1 to 3 days, depending on your knowledge and what questions you have. If you'd like to come to Fairfield, please let us know and we'll check the calendar.

  • 99.5% of a Chim-Scan® is built in our Shop in Iowa. The .5% that isn't built here are from multiply countries. 

    For those who are wondering, the only things, we can't build are camera chips, monitors, and the SD recorder.

  • Yes and No, if your unit was built:

    Pre- 2000 - We can possibly repair it, but newer equipment won't work.

    2000-2015 - it's a 50/50 shot. Some units can be updated to use the newer equipment and others can't. Send us pictures and we'll give you a rough idea.
    2015-present - Yes 100%

  • This is a hard question to give a definite answer. The reason is that we build our equipment so it easy to use and so you will professional. Most people will look at a Series 211 with a J3D camera see that it's the most expensive and think it's the best. Truth is a Series 100 with a J3D is just as good. 
    Our suggestion is to 1st look at your budget then imagine walking into a customer with each series. Which one makes you and your wallet happy. Remember you can upgrade a Series 100 into a Series 211.
    If you're still not sure, please call or email us, we're happy to help.

    1. Before returning, call or email us, so we can see if there's something we can do.

    2. All goods are sold with manufacturers’ warranty only.

    3. All returns must be made within seven (7) days and must be accompanied by sales invoice issued by Estoban Corporation.

    4. Estoban reserves the right, at its discretion, to pro-rate a refund in lieu of repair or replacement.

    5. Merchandise for refund or replacement must be in original packing, containing the correct serial and model numbers, instruction manual, and all accessories.

    6. All returns will be assessed a fifteen (25) % restocking fee.

    7. All special order items must be accompanied by a fifty percent (50%) nonrefundable deposit.

    8. No returns or refunds on special order merchandise.

    9. Shipping will be taken out of the final balance.

  • TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE

    ​​

    1. All goods are sold with manufacturers’ warranty only.

    2. All returns must be made within seven (7) days and must be accompanied by sales invoice issued by Estoban Corporation.

    3. Estoban reserves the right, at its discretion, to pro-rate a refund in lieu of repair or replacement.

    4. Merchandise for refund or replacement must be in original packing, containing the correct serial and model numbers, instruction manual, and all accessories.

    5.  All returns will be assessed a twenty five precent (25) % restocking fee.

    6. ​

    7. All special order items must be accompanied by a fifty percent (50%) nonrefundable deposit.

    8. No returns or refunds on special order merchandise.

    9. Estoban Corporation has a $75 dollar minimum fee for handling and shipping.  Any merchandise returned to us must be on a freight prepaid basis only.

    10. Accounts will be subject to a 1.5% service fee per month.

    11. All merchandise which requires factory repair, will be assessed a minimum fee of $125.00 plus all shipping charges. Estoban does not undertake repair at the customer’s site.

    12. To return any equipment for repair,

    13. Call the repair center for an authorization, at 1-641-472-7643. 

    14. Fill out Repair Form on our website (www.chimscan.net) or print out the repair form and send it with unit. 

    15. If we received a repair without a Note or a filled out copy of the Repair Form whether in the box or by email, the unit will be put at the end of line.

    16.   Estoban Corporation minimum bench charge to check, or give repair estimate is $125.00 Estimate will be credited towards final repair charges.

    17.  On equipment returned for repair (past warranty) such as Camera image sensor, focus mechanism, tilt mechanism, monitor repairs, and control box, repairs completed are subject to 30 day repair warranty only.  All shipping charges are your responsibility. 

    18.  Cable repairs are not covered by any warranty and are not subject to the thirty (30) day repair guarantee.

    19. All repairs will be on prepaid or credit card basis only.

    20. All above terms and conditions effective 7/25/25.

  • WARRANTY

    Estoban products, when operated under normal conditions of use, are warranted by Estoban to be free from defects in material and workmanship.

    Warranty specifications apply from the date of purchase from Estoban or an authorized Estoban representative or distributor.

    Subsequent re-sale is not covered by this warranty and claims subsequent to the warranty period will not be entertained.

     Unauthorized extensions of warranties by the customer shall remain the customer’s responsibility.

    Specifications are as follows:

    • All SD Recorders and LCD screens carry a 90 day limited warranty (shipping not included).

    • All Fixed Focus, Auto Focus and Remote Focus cameras and interior LED lights in these models, carry 1 year parts and labor (shipping not included).

    • All control boxes carry 1 year parts and labor (shipping not included)

    • All LED Exterior lights carry a 90 day warranty parts and labor (shipping not included).

    • All warranties will be voided if stabilizers supplied by Estoban are not used.

    • Estoban warranties do not extend to any goods or parts which have been subjected to misuse, modification, lack of maintenance, or damage resulting from fire, flooding, lightning or explosion.

    • THIS EXPRESS WARRANTY EXCLUDES ALL OTHER WARRANTIES OR REPRESENTATIONS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED BY ANY LITERATURE, DATA OR PERSON. THE MAXIMUM LIABILITY OF ESTOBAN UNDER THIS EXCLUSIVE REMEDY SHALL NEVER EXCEED THE COST OF THE SUBJECT PRODUCT, AND ESTOBAN RESERVES THE RIGHT, AT ITS SOLE DISCRETION, TO PRO-RATE A REFUND IN LIEU OF REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT.

    • Estoban WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE OR LIABLE FOR INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OF ANY KIND, however arising, including but not limited to those for the use of any products, loss of time, inconvenience, lost profit, labor charges, or other incidental or consequential damages with respect to persons, animals, business, or property, whether as a result of breach of warranty, negligence or otherwise.

    • All prices and design specification are subject to changes without written notice.

    • Phone: 641-472-7643  E-mail:  info@chimscan.net  Website:  www.chimscan.net       

Your Chim-Scan Knowledge Hub
Image by Rafael Leão

Chim-scan®

Frequently Asked Questions

Chim-Scan® Troubleshooting.

    1. Check that unit is lugged using the wall plug or that a charged battery is attached via the drill battery adaptor.​

      1. Wall plug -

        1. check all the prongs are there.​

        2. check the cord for nicks, cuts, or breaks.

        3. Make sure it's attached to the units.

      2. Drill battery

        1. Check that you're using the correct drill battery brand.​

        2. Check there's nothing in the adaptor like soot or dirt.

        3. If you've left the battery on the unit overnight and didn't put the AC/DC in middle position. Theres a possibility that the battery is dead and will need to be charged or replaced.

    2. Check the AC/DC switch. AC=Wall Plug  DC=Drill Battery. Also check out the band when you have time.

    3. Check ALL the fuses

    4. is there anything loose behind the faceplate?

      1. if yes, there's a chance if what's behind the faceplate is metal it bonused around and broke off a wire or was touching power wires when the unit was turned on.​

    5. If you use the wall plug - did you plug it into an unground plug​

      1. There's a possibility that the unit received a big surge. Yes, the fuses should have popped to protect the unit. But we've seen the electricity jump.​

    6.  

      ​When you turned the unit on, did you smell a funky smell or hear a crack or pop. 

      1. If you answered yes to either funky smell or to sound - there's a chance the interior power supply's fuse has popped.

    IF nothing has changed or if #4 - 6 happened, the unit needs to come back for repair.

    ​

    On the repair form, let us know what you tried so we have base line. You are also welcome to send us a video of what you've tried.

  • Unit is on, but the screen is blue:

    1. Check the camera connection.
      Make sure the camera is connected to the 50ft cable.

    2. If using a Series 211:
      Check that the controller’s gray pigtail is connected to the reeler pigtail inside the case.

    3. Check the Cam1/Cam2 switch.
      Ensure the switch is set to the correct side.
      - If you own both a Lighthouse (or Lighthouse Tilt) and a J3D, this is often the solution.

    4. Try flipping the SD bypass switch.
      - If you get an image: check the time and date overlay.
        - If the time and date are missing, the issue is likely with the monitor or the camera.
      - If you don’t get an image: continue troubleshooting.

    5. Test with another camera (if available).
      Swap in a different camera to see if the issue persists. This helps rule out the camera as the problem.

    6. If you have a keyboard:
      You may have accidentally pressed the F9 key.
      - F9 bypasses the video signal so you can type notes or descriptions.
      - It can cause a variety of screen colors.
      - Keep pressing F9 until the live feed returns.

    ​

    If you have tried all the above and still have a blue screen, the unit needs to come back for service.


    If you do not have spare components to test with, we recommend sending everything in so we can evaluate the full system.

  • If the camera stops rotating, here are thing you can do, before sending it in.

    1. Is the tape around the top and bottom of the lens intact.

      1. This will tell you if there’s a soot infiltration – if the tape isn’t doing it’s job, there’s a chance fine soot has gotten into the interior. And worked it’s way down into the spindle or gear and created a blockage.

    2. Remove the lens and blow out the are around the camera holder.

      1. You can do this will canned air or an air line, just make sure there’s no moisture in the line.

    3. While the lens is removed, check the top of the camera (where the whiskers  are).

      1. Can you see anything in the top that may pressing or grabbing the camera holder

    4. Check the pigtail coming out of the bottom of them camera

      1. Do you see wires or have the rubber cover been pull out of camera

    5. Check the 10-pin connector.

      1. See any part of it loose or unscrewing (spinning is another way it’s been described.)

    6. If you flip the Left/Right switch, can you hear the motor in the bottom of the camera

      1. If it’s making any noise other than a hum (maybe high pinched).

      2. If the pinch of the normal hum is lower or higher then there’s a issue with the motor

      3. If you hear, ca-thunk or click, click, click or noises of that variety – motor issue.

    If  you try these or hear those sounds – the camera needs to come back for repair.

     

    Oh wait—you do wiring and other electrical work? That’s awesome! But still… the camera needs to come back to us. We totally get that more folks are diving into electronics and wiring these days, and we respect that. You might be able to fix it—but you also might blow the camera chip or fry the motor. So please, save yourself the headache and send it in. We don’t share our wiring patterns, and we’d rather help than have you accidentally turn your camera into a very expensive paperweight.

  • If the camera stops Tilting – here are thing you can do, before sending it in.

    1. Look at the motor on top of the camera holder

      1. Are there 2 wires on the end?

        1. If a wire is broke off – the motor isn’t getting power.

          1. If you can solder, feel free to put the wire back on the motor. WARNING – the pins on the motor are small and surrounded by plastic. If the plastic melts it can jam the interior part of the motor.

      2. Is the Tilt arm connected to cam on motor and the gimble arm.

        1. The gimble is the part that’s around the camera chip

        2. The cam is the round part on the end of the motor

        3. Tilt arm is the part that connects the cam and the gimble

    2. Is there anything around the camera preventing it from tilting.

      1. Remove the lens and look at the camera holder. Is there something under the camera that’s not letting it tilt.

      2. Look in the back at the slit, is a wire poking out. Gently push wire back in.

    3. Look at the pigtail and the connector.

      1. If either show signs of wear or are broken – that can be the cause.

    If the camera still won’t tilt after looking at all these, the camera needs to come back.

     

    NOTE if you think you can fix your camera.

    Oh wait—you do wiring and other electrical work? That’s awesome! But still… the camera needs to come back to us. We totally get that more folks are diving into electronics and wiring these days, and we respect that. You might be able to fix it—but you also might blow the camera chip or fry the motor. So please, save yourself the headache and send it in. We don’t share our wiring patterns, and we’d rather help than have you accidentally turn your camera into a very expensive paperweight.

  • What does the SD bypass switch do?

    ​

    The SD bypass switch lets you skip the SD recorder and send the video feed straight from the camera to the monitor.

    ​

    Wait—what??

    If that didn’t make sense, don’t worry. Here’s another way to explain it:

    ​

    When you power on a Chim-Scan® and connect a camera, the video signal travels through the 50-foot cable into the SD recorder, then back out to the monitor. While the signal is passing through the recorder, you can take photos and record video.

    But if you flip the SD bypass switch, the video signal skips the recorder entirely and goes straight from the camera to the monitor.

    ​

    Still fuzzy? Think of it like this:

    ​

    You’re driving on a highway and usually take Exit 1A (that’s the SD recorder). But one day, Exit 1A is closed for construction. You follow a detour (the bypass) and stay on the highway until you can exit later. In this analogy, the highway is the video cable, and the exit is the SD recorder.

    ​

    ​

    We hope this clears things up! We always aim to explain things in a way that makes sense—whether you're a seasoned tech or just getting started.

  • Cable Care - Cable Issues to Watch For:

    If your cable is showing any of the following signs, it may be time for maintenance or replacement:

    1. Twisting or “candy cane” spiraling

      • If your camera has auto-rotation, ask yourself: Are you manually turning it out of habit?

    2. Soot residue

      • If your hands are always dirty after handling the cable, it’s time for a cleaning.

    3. Nicks, cuts, or gouges

      • Visible damage can expose internal wires and compromise performance.

    4. Dry, brittle texture

      • If it feels like it belongs in a museum, the outer jacket may be deteriorating.

    What You Can Do:

    1. Send it in for replacement

    We’ll inspect and replace the cable. In most cases, we can reuse the reeler and connectors—unless there’s extensive damage.

    2. Clean it yourself (if it’s just dirty)

    Here’s a simple method:

    • Use a baby wipe, damp cloth, or paper towel.

    • Hold the cloth in one hand and the cable in the other.

    • Gently but firmly pull the cable through the cloth, unspooling it as you go.

    • When you reach the end (or the clean section), flip the cloth or use a fresh one.

    • Rewind the cable onto the reeler, wiping as you go.

    • Make sure the cable is dry before storing—moisture can cause acid spots.

    Why clean it?
    Built-up soot can degrade the cable’s outer layer over time, leading to cracks and exposure of internal wires.

    3. Patch visible damage

    If you find nicks, cuts, or gouges:

    • Wrap the damaged area with electrical tape to protect the inner wiring.

    4. If it’s dried out

    Cleaning may help a little, but it won’t reverse the damage.
    Why does this happen?
    Soot and chimney debris build up over time, drying out the cable’s outer jacket. Once that layer is compromised, the process accelerates.

    Bottom Line:

    If your cable is damaged, dried out, or unsafe to use, it’s time for a replacement. The good news? We can usually reuse your existing reeler and connectors—unless there’s significant wear.

    ​

    ​

    ​

  • Cable or Pigtail Connector

    ​

    News – In May 2025, Estoban Corporation makers of Chim-Scan® had to change the type of connector used. Unfortunately, our supplier of 40yrs, raised the price and had a wait time of 4 months. So, if you were a new customer, you would have received a new style connector. If you were a existing customer, we will be using the original until we run out.  An email was sent out in May 2025, updating everyone so if you wondering why the change happened – here’s why.

     

    Connector issues and maintenance – we realize that some of these will make more sense in a video. When that video is finished the link will be here.

    ​

    1. The best way to keep your connectors in the best shape – DO NOT try to unscrew them like you’re wringing a towel.

      1. Grab hold of the ring, unscrew it from the female connector and gently pull/tug until their apart.

    2. The shrink tube no longer on the connector or it looks awful.

      1. The shrink tube’s purpose is to provide a scuff protection and makes the cable look nice.

      2. You can replace it with electrical tape or 2in PVC black tile tape. PLEASE DO NOT use duct tape. That will do more damage than good.

    3. The middle section of the connector is moving

      1. SEND it back to us.

    4. Wires are exposed on the back or the front of the connector

      1. If wires are exposed at the back and your still get image, rotation and tilt. Simple wrap in in 2 in PVC tile tape

      2. If wires are exposed at the front of the connector – it need to come back to be repaired.

    5. If the ring of the male connector is bend or misshapen, feel free to try and fix it but be mindful of the threading.

    6. If the any part of the connecting piece of either connector become bend, chipped, obliviated, or just don’t fit right. Please send back for repair or replacement.

    If you’re not sure, text us a picture and we’ll be happy to help.

Chim-Scan® Repairs, Upgrades, Trade- in's and Refurbs.

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Chim-Scan® Accessories

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